Give Your Dog Exercise #1, Training #2, Affection #3 - IN THAT ORDER!
Let your dog blow off steam with a brisk hour walk or free play hour before training so he/
she is in a calm ready state and not wound up.  Exercise often helps remedy barking, chewing, digging, separation anxiety, rowdiness and more.  Use calm affection as a reward for your dog during & after training.  Learn to recognize your dog's ON/ energetic & OFF/tired times.  Target training from the transition of the ON to the OFF time.

SOCIALIZE Your Dog    Young pups with good experiences mature into much friendlier,
less fearful dogs than others, and aren't as likely to become aggressive.  Get your dog out
in the world - the coffee patio, shopping lane, dog park, pet store.  Stop at that
interesting trail you would not otherwise explore.  You'll enjoy the view through his eyes!

THINK Like Your Dog - Behave Like His Master  Would you come to your owner if you
knew that it meant that your fun play & freedom were going to be curtailed?  Why wouldn't
you bound out the door to chase that cat or squirrel - or simply experience freedom with no
stinkin' leash?  Would you rather do something which delights you or makes you uncomfy
or even fearful?  Dogs have innate drives & instincts.  Through repetitive training practice,
we teach them new behaviors which become habits to make their world a safer place and
them more enjoyable companions.

Don't Treat Your Dog Like a Human  ... or he'll become unbalanced and confused about
his place in the world.  Don't hold him like a baby, put his bowl on the table, invite him to
jump on the couch.  Give him his own crate, bed, yard area.  Think twice about teaching
"tricks."  A dog who learns to fetch the morning paper will pick up all in the neighborhood,
not understanding the mixed signals of it being fine at home but not elsewhere.

Be Your Dog's Calm Assertive Leader at All Times    "Leading" is a lot bigger than
"training."  It's a relationship of you exuding continual calm energy in guiding your dog
through his life's experiences, not a start-stop activity at whim.  Once you try becoming
your dog's leader, it will soon become second nature - plus rewarding and enjoyable!  With-
out leadership, your dog will become unbalanced from having to fill in the gaps on his own.

Pick a Consistent Verbal Correction and Use It Only Once Per Incident    Your gut
tells you to say "Dog's Name, NO" to stop that moment's digging, jumping, etc.  And then to
say "NO" time and again when Fido ignores you.  The problem with "NO" is that we humans
say this word quite often in our conversations.  When he hears "no," poor Fido jumps from
his bed to try to figure out what he could have possibly just done wrong.  Pick a non-human
sound like "UNH UNH" to verbally correct your dog.  And only use it once.  With the inevitable
ignoring at first, leash your dog and maneuver him into the desired behavior.  Use time outs
for major, repetitive snafus.  Give your dog something different to do instead, like SIT.

Reward Good Behavior   Positive reinforcement is much more powerful than punishment,
which can make your dog fearful of you and break down the bond you wish to have with him.
Food treats are fine as rewards at first.  Eventually your dog will treasure that simple "Good Boy" with a pat even more.

Be Patient with a Reasonable "First Things First" ApproachYou couldn't write without learning your A-B-C's first.  Your dog cannot be expected to "COME" from playing off lead to a "SIT STAY" at your feet if he hasn't mastered the "SIT STAY" first.  CONNECT with your dog.  Use eye contact.  Know that some which you desire must follow later after the basics are mastered.  Be patient with both your dog and yourself. Changing behavior takes a lot of time. Take it slowly, one step at a time. If you become angry at your dog instead of remaining calm, the chance to correctly modify the behavior will be gone.

Try to Use the Vocal Command with its Hand Signal.     Dogs work best on visual hand signal cues.  When first training, get your dog's attention with a kiss/smack noice.  Then use hand signals combined with voice commands-later lose the latter so you can relax!
Jump-Start Your Pup's Progress with Professional Training   There's a lot to be said for getting off on the right foot from the start.  Professionals who have years of experience with hundreds of dogs will help get you on the right path.  Sign up for our training!



Walk Politely On Lead at Your Side Without PullingDuring the walk, give
your dog HIS WHIM TIME to sniff and explore the world (plus take care of business), and
take YOUR WHIM TIME to direct him to politely walk at your side with no pulling, bolting or
zig zagging.
Stick a few food treats into your pocket before you leave.  Start with the explore/sniff/take
care of business time.  Then when you're in the "walk politely" zone, take one treat at a time
and clench it in your left fist.  Let your dog muzzle that fist for the treat with your arm relaxed
at your side while walking.  This puts him into a natural polite walk at your left side.  From
time to time give him one treat, and then grab another to repeating the muzzling of your left
clenched fist.  Later treats won't be necessary as walking at your side becomes his habit.  Put him in a SIT at each curb before crossing the street, releasing him with an OK! when you're ready to proceed.  Training collars and harnasses complement this process.  Link with a professional trainer to learn their correct use.

Safely Meet & Greet Dogs Along the WayWhen you encounter another pup in tow, ask if that dog is friendly and whether it is OK for your dogs to meet.  Then give your dog enough slack in the leash so that he has space for that doggie handshake, the butt sniff.  Watch his body language as well as that of the other dog.  If both have an upright quickly wagging tail and no hackles raised, the introduction is going well.  Otherwise be prepared to use your dog's leash to immediately pull him out of the encounter.  If your dog growls, flattens his back, has hackles raised and ears lowered (aggression), pull him out immediately.  Likewise if he is quivering and pulling away in fear from the other dog.  The root causes of these behaviors are best handled by professional trainers, as you could amplify behavioral issues of your dog if you are not careful.  Before any encounter with another dog, make sure any treats you're carrying first "go away."  Many otherwise friendly dogs will become aggressive when it comes to food.  If your dog ever growls at any human, enlist a professional trainer post haste!
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Stop Jumping on PeopleIt's normal for dogs to want to jump on people.  This is how they naturally greet other dogs.  Your job is to teach your dog that jumping on the human sort doesn't cut the mustard, and giving him a good alternative for expressing that happy greeting.  Make sure everyone in the family is consistent.  There can't be one set of rules which is "I can jump on the kids," and another which is "I can't jump on the guests."  This is too confusing!  Below are three ways to teach Spot not to jump on people.  Each one comes in handy at times, so try all three!

(1)  The Foot on the Leash  - When you know in advance that your dog is going to be in a situation where he'll be jumping up on people, like when you have guests arriving, leash him in advance.  Before you open the door for your guests, step on the leash so that there is no slack.  When he tries to jump up on your guests, the leash restricts any upward movement.  If your guests like dogs, put him in a SIT STAY and invite them to then pet your dog so that his greeting need is satisfied.
(2)  The Raised Knee - When your dog is coming to you for that frontal assault, raise your knee so your dog only makes contact with the toe of your shoe (note - you are not KICKING your dog!).  At the same time throw out that verbal correction "UNH UNH."  After your dog stops jumping, put him in a SIT and reach down to CALMLY give a rub greeting.  If your greeting is too jazzed up and exciting, he'll just trying jumping again.
(3)  The Twirl Around - You're walking in with a sack of groceries and here bounds Fido.  Turn around so his jump is on your back side instead of your front and tell him UNH UNH.  He prefers to greet your front, not your butt.  This works with most albeit not all pooches.
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"SIT"This instruction has nothing to do with teaching a dog a "trick," but instead is one of the basics for moving onto advanced instructions.  SIT-STAY gives your dog a way to fill his noggin with doing whatever else than he's doing at the time like digging, jumping on the neighbor, etc.  Instead of just saying UNH UNH, you're being positive by giving your dog an alternative that he knows and understands.  Because of this, SIT and SIT STAY need to be taught to your dog as a "101" basic before you can progress to other more advanced instuctions.

"SIT" - Hold a food treat over the dog's nose.  Slowly move it up and back over the dog's head. The dog will follow the food with his head and naturally put its butt on the ground, sit down. Now say "SIT" with the action. If the dog lifts his front legs you are holding the food treat too high.  As soon as the dog sits, say ""GOOD SIT" and give the treat. Know that it will take many times of practice for most dogs to learn what SIT means. When the dog understands what you want, only give the treats intermittently. Practice SIT in different places in your home, especially the front door so Rover is less of a problem with guests.  Also require SIT during your walks at each curb before crossing the street.  Later your dog will stop of his own accord and wait before you give him a release command like OK before crossing any street.

The Hand Signal for SIT:  Point your palm up (like to the sky) first, then direct your arm to your dog's nose so that he is looking at your palm.  Raise your palm upwards by bending your elbow, keeping your arm at your side.  Your dog's nose follows your palm - he puts his haunches down to be able to follow your hand.

The Hand Signal for SIT STAY:  The same as for "SIT" followed by a palm up/pointed to the sky like a traffic cop.  When Rover starts to inch out of the SIT STAY, give him a deep gutteral UNH UNH with the palm up signal again.  Walk him back to the original SIT STAY place and put him back in that position.
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Stop Barking    Barking is as natural for dogs as talking is for us humans!  It's how they communicate.  REASONS dogs bark:
  • Alert Warning/Territory Protection - These barks alert you to the presence of a danger or suspicious stranger, and become more rapid as the intruder approaches. Aggressive barks are low in pitch and may be combined with growls.  This is encouraged by some owners, needs to be controlled quickly by others.
  • Attention Seeking - Most often this is used by puppies to get you to focus on them. They can become very insistent and hard to ignore, but ignore them you must!
  • Boredom - Bored barkers are entertained by the sound of their own voice.  They need an outlet for their energy and a more stimulating environment.
  • Fear/Being Startled - This comes from an unfamiliar or sudden sound or movement. As with an alert/warning bark, you want to be able to control this type of barking quickly, plus learn how to reassure your dog that all is a-ok.
  • Loneliness and Anxiety - Lonely/anxious barking occurs if your dog is experiencing separation anxiety. The barking can become self-reinforcing as he/she becomes more stimulated and anxious. Anxious barks tend to get higher in pitch as the dog becomes more upset. This type of non-stop, squeaky barking can be especially annoying to your neighbors!
  • Play Excitement - Play/excitement barks are often short and sharp. These barks are common if the dog gets excited with the fun and games. Often a cool-down time-out is all that's needed (leash your dog, pull him out of the situation, let him relax).
  • Self-Identification - This is how your dog answers other dogs he hears barking in the neighborhood. He's saying, "I'm over here and will join in to help if needed!"  Also see the above Alert Warning - he's often parroting another dog to protect his territory.

Control Undesireable BarkingFirst you need a dog who can obey you and relax.  The dog needs to know what behavior you desire INSTEAD of barking.  If you can call your dog and have him go into a "DOWN STAY" (dogs do not bark as much when on the ground), you are on your way to solving a nuisance barking problem.  Other tips:
  • Don't shout "NO."  The dog will think YOU are barking TOO, and will probably be happy you joined in.  Instead use your correction command ("Unh Unh" or other), and direct him/her with a command to focus on another behavior instead.
  • Don't inadvertently reinforce barking by giving verbal or physical reassurance to barking by hugging your dog, talking soothingly or otherwise playing into his/her barking.  Otherwise your dog may believe there really WAS something to be alarmed about, or anxious about and afraid of.  Then he'll just bark more the next time!
  • Try to set up situations with what starts the barking in the first place, and use training to control it.  Practice in short 5-10 minute intervals.

In some situations, corrective bark collars are useful. There is a citronella collar which sprays a lemony smell upward (into the nose) when the dog barks.  It's distasteful to dogs, plus lets you know that your dog was barking if you were gone since the citrus smell lingers in the air. Another type of collar that may be effective is a halter collar. This type of collar looks like a horse halter. When you pull on the leash portion, a portion of the collar tightens around the dog's muzzle. By using a quick pull of the lead with your "Unh Unh," and rewarding your dog when quiet, you may find the training goes faster.  Best is to have a soul connection with your dog with you as the respected alpha.

Cesar Millan on EXCESSIVE Barking
  • Remember, barking is natural! It's an important means of communication for dogs. But sometimes problems can develop. As the pack leader, it's your job to step in and control excessive barking.
  • Correct and follow through! Tell your dog to stop barking using a look, a sound, or a physical correction. But don't stop there. Your dog may pause and then go right back to what he was doing. His body relaxed, but his brain was still on alert. Be patient. Wait until your dog completely submits before you go back to what you were doing.
  • Make sure you are calm! Constant barking can be irritating, but you won't be able to correct the problem if you are frustrated. Animals don't follow unbalanced leaders. In fact, your dog will mirror your energy. If you're frustrated, he will be, too! And barking is a great release for that frustrated energy. Take a moment to curb your own internal barking first.
  • Stake your claim! Is your dog barking over and over again at the same object, person, situation, or place? Then you need to step up and claim that stimulus as your own. Use your body, your mind, and your calm-assertive energy to create an invisible wall that your dog is not allowed to cross. Do it with 100% dedication and focus, and the results may surprise you.
  • Give your dog more challenges! Excessive barking is often the result of pent-up energy. If this is the case, the solution is simple: release that energy in more productive ways. Does your dog receive a daily walk? Can you make the walk more challenging with a bicycle, a backpack, or by walking on an incline? Can you provide more mental challenges, such as herding, agility training, or simple obedience games? There are many, many ways to increase the challenges in your dog's life. Find one that you enjoy that your dog can participate in safely.
  • Get professional help. When you brought this dog into your life, you made a commitment to provide the care he needs. This includes calling in a canine professional to help him cope with a behavior issue.
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Come to You When Called from Playing Off Leash ("Come")

Being off-leash represents fun and freedom to dogs, and the dog learns that these good times do not include the owner.  It’s the owner who ruins the fun by directing the dog to “Come.”  If the dog comes to the owner, her leash is promptly attached and the good times end (not a happy outcome for the dog).  With each next time, she delays coming when called because that way she gets more off leash fun, and she learns that she doesn’t have to come - or at least not until the umpteenth billion time - as ignoring the owner is much more fun than obeying, particularly since she is likely to be punished with frustrated anger for eventual compliance.

Until your dog understands what “Come” means, a leash must always be attached to your dog with YOU at the other end whenever you use the command.  Otherwise you can’t follow through with control to teach your dog.

NEVER chase your off leash dog when trying to use the “Come” command.  This becomes a keep-away game for your dog which is fun for her and frustrating for you.  With any urgent situation where you perceive danger for your un-trained off-leash dog, it’s better to use a happy voice as best you can by calling your dog’s name for attention and getting her to then chase after you as you run in the direction you want her to follow - waving your arms in the air makes it more exciting for her and gives you a more immediate response.  Or hide the leash behind you and softly go to her as if in fun (skipping helps make it look so to her), surprising her with the leash so that she doesn’t play keep-away.

Never use “Come” to call your dog to discipline her, correct her, tell her she’s a bad dog, or for any negative reason.  “Come” should always end calmly and positively, with happy praise, a treat, nice rubs or simply a sweet smile.

How to Train Your Dog to “Come”
Make a leash line which is around 20-30 feet long (attach other leashes or a rope to your dog’s people end of her leash).  Practice using this line without the dog first.  What you’ll be doing is to have one arm extended straight out in front of you with the palm up.  The other arm will be pulling the slack from the line through the palm of the outstretched other arm, and giving tugs to your pooch to guide her to you, coiling the line in with tugs of a few feet at a time as it runs through your palm up hand.

Once you think you have the feel for it, attach the line’s clip end to Fido's snug collar - don't use a halter or gentle leader, and make sure she can't back out of her collar.  Then let her go play in a safe place like your yard where you can first practice.  Once your dog is interested in something or playing:
  • Make the line taut with your dog and then call out, “Dog’s name, Come.”  Also point to your feet - this is the hand cue.
  • Expect your dog to first ignore you.  She initially will have no clue what this means, then quickly will be challenging you.  Then give a pull on the line which should tug your dog’s neck collar.  Your dog should turn to look at you and start towards you.  If your pooch continues to ignore you, give a firmer tug on the line and ONLY ONCE AGAIN say, “Dog’s name, COME!” while again pointing to your feet.  Proceed with gradual line pulls until your dog is at your feet and you have put her in a "SIT STAY" (this training required in advance of "COME").
  • Work the long line as practiced above, telling your dog what a great pup she is while she is coming to you so a positive experience is associated with the “Come” command until she arrives at your feet.  Any time your dog slows down or appears distracted during the process, give another tug with cheerful encouragement.  Then put her in a Sit-Stay until you release her (a happy "OK" and optional pat on the side while you unhook the lead to duplicate the process later).

Repeat this process in the yard day after day, time after time until you feel confident trying it without embarrassment elsewhere.  Then go replicate it in the front cul de sac, the dog park, out on the trails or where ever you need your dog to learn to respond to your cue.  Freely show off the the neighbors about what an astute dog owner you are!

The Hand Signal for "COME":  Start by calling your dog's name to get him/her to look at you, then point to your feet.
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Stop Running/Bolting Out an Open Door or Gate    For many families, retrieving an escaped dog every time a door or gate is opened is a way of life.  There are squirrels and cats to chase, neighborhood dogs to play with, and a big fun world to explore.  Plus the house and yard become a yawn.  Most dogs naturally ignore any interference with this freedom and are clueless why you assign any importance to the door or gate being a meaningful barrier.

Getting your dog to stop escaping is not an easy fix.  You are fighting your dog’s instincts by training her not to feel free to go through a door or gate without permission.  The good news is that if you come up with a good plan and apply it consistently, you will see improvements before long.  Here are a few tips and suggestions on how to teach your dog to stop escaping through doors and gates.

  • Set up a Family Doorknob Policy.  Make sure all family members know that they are not supposed to turn a doorknob (or open a gate) that leads to any exit unless they know where the dog is, and are sure the dog can’t run out.  Tip:  Keep a bell on a small dog so you can hear her to know where she is.  It’s easy for small dogs to slip through gates and doors without anyone noticing.
  • Before you walk to a door or gate exit, put a your dog in a “Sit” far back from that door/gate and tell her to “Stay!”  Extend your arm in a traffic-cop “Stop” hand signal, and walk to the door.  If she starts moving as you reach for the door knob, put your hand out again in that “Stop” signal and firmly say “Unh Unh...Stay!”  If she gets up while you are walking to the door (she WILL), take her back to the original spot and place her back in her “Sit.”  Repeat this process - and practice it often - until you can open the door slowly (you must watch her) without your dog breaking her Sit-Stay.
  • Try playing this game at the door.  Stand at the door and open it up wide.  No doubt your dog will rush toward it in anticipation of an escape to freedom.  As she gets close to the door, swing the door shut in front of her (far enough in advance that you don’t hurt your dog).  This will surprise your dog.  Tell her to “Sit Stay.”  If she follows your instruction, praise her with a soft “Good girl” that does not cause her to get too excited and lose focus.  Repeat this process (often takes many times) until your dog will Sit-Stay by the door even with the door fully open.  When this occurs, you can walk out without her, or put a leash on her and invite her to come through the door with you at your side (not pulling in front of you).
  • Finally, we’re at the place where we want to teach your dog to automatically “Wait” at the door for an invitation to join you whenever you want to take her out through it - or to stay if you don't.  Go to the door with your dog’s leash in hand.  (You can do this with your dog’s leash on her from the start, but this process is better for when you forget to do so.)  Say “Wait” and reach for the doorknob.  If your dog moves forward, remove your hand from the doorknob, pause and try again.  If your dog waits, give her a soft “Good girl” which does not excite her out of her “Wait.”  When you can touch the knob without your dog pushing forward, try opening the door a few inches.  If your dog waits, praise again.  If your dog moves forward, close the door gently, pause, then try again.  Repeat several times, opening the door wider each time.  When your dog waits, softly praise again.  When your dog moves forward, close the door and start over.  When your dog waits several seconds with the door wide open, put on her leash and tell her “OK, let’s go,” allowing her to go through with you.  Repeat this entire process at every door and gate exit at your home.  Your dog will get it after a time or two - or maybe two hundred!
With patience and consistency over time, you will enjoy each of your pup's growth stages until he/she matures into being a wonderful companion and a delightful soul mate!
DOG & PUPPY Training Tips
Start with a family pact to do what's best for your dog!
All dogs are different.  There's no one-size-fits-all when it comes to adjusting dog behaviors.  The following tips are simply meant to help you get started.
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